Pete
8 posts
Joined: 02/11/2004 17:14:20
Location: Kingsbridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Oil throwers and duplex chains
Aye,aye Will, can be a prob. If you can get hold of a pre 1972 Cooper S oil thrower they have a deeper dish than all the others and will give the extra clearance. These throwers were, of course, designed for duplex gears.I have fitted the standard A Plus thrower to duplex gears many times with no problems but of course, I only ever use the standard fixed type in sintered or steel type. Hope this is of some help? Pete.
Posted: Nov 12, 2005 10:27 PM
N. ROBERTS
7 posts
Joined: 28/10/2004 18:44:36
Location: GOBOWEN United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Vernier duplex gear+simplex chain cover??????
I`ve just found a problem which is preventing me from finishing my build. With the duplex vernier wheels on, (and the countersunk cap screws in the rear plate) the front timing chain cover fouls on the cam wheel before the bolts tighten. I cant find info on this in Vizards bible or on any of the fantastic reference pages of this site. Help please. What do I do??? remove the "collar" from inside the cover?
Posted: May 30, 2006 06:51 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I don't know the answer, but I'd be interested to hear it as I was considering doing the same job myself! Time to contact the suppliers, perhaps? Did it come from MiniSpares or somewhere else?
Posted: May 31, 2006 09:01 AM
Bought the set on Ebay, but it is a product that is sold at the fabulous Mini Spares centre, a place to be worshipped by us all.
Posted: May 31, 2006 10:14 AM
In that case I'm sure they'll give you some advice over the phone.
Posted: May 31, 2006 12:04 PM
craig
10 posts
Joined: 15/12/2005 21:06:04
Location: torquay United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
hey
if you mean the chain cover is hitting your cam pulley then with mine all i did was to tap the cover out a bit. the inside of the chain cover was rubbin on the chain where the breather hole starts in the cover. just tap it out a bit with a hammer. not too much though or you may have problems with the breather tube gettin too close to the fan blades.
Posted: May 31, 2006 07:20 PM
Thanks Craig I`ll give it a go, but theres a semi - circular band of steel, possibly spot welded to the inside of the cover, that is at right angles to the cover itself. I`m tempted to grind this off as it seems to only be some sort of splash plate for oil being flung off the cam pulley.
Posted: Jun 01, 2006 06:13 AM
Beaker
14 posts
Joined: 23/11/2005 04:01:15
Location: Christchurch New Zealand
Tensioner on Duplex Chains
I notice thre are the Duplex Timing chains, but no tensioner available for a duplex chain.. Is it not required, or will a single one do the trick?
Posted: May 18, 2010 09:52 AM
Michael
1 posts
Joined: 19/04/2011 22:43:57
Location: Camano Island United States
Duplex Chain
Hi,
When I went to change my simplex for a duplex chain, the cam sprocket was 180 out. That is, the indent on the sprocket and the mark on the crank sprocket was not as pictured. If I remember right, the distributor was pointing to #4 when #1 was at TDC exhibited by viewing through plug hole #1 and #4 valves were both rocking per Haynes. Flywheel mark "0" is also visible through port.
Question is; Can this be true? And now do I just move the cam around the 180 and install?
Posted: Jul 16, 2014 10:49 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
If the cam is 180deg out then with #1 coming up to TDC the exhaust valve should be closing and as it goes over TDC the inlet valve should open. The valves on #4 should be staying closed for the ignition stroke. If this is the case then turning the cam 180deg should fix this so that the dizzie is pointing at #1 again as normal.
It isn't a problem though as long as you remember the modified firing sequence. If it's points ignition though you will have to connect the strobe light to #4 plug lead.
Posted: Jul 18, 2014 01:12 PM
Stuart Dainty
Joined: 21/08/2013 12:54:42
Location: Cottingham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
The Haynes manual is wrong in its reference. Set it up as it says but ignore the bit about the timing dots. Its getting mixed up between static timing and ignition timing. You cant get it wrong as long as the camshaft and crankshaft are not moved while the chains are off.
Posted: Jul 19, 2014 11:36 PM
Will1098
Joined: 30/01/2005 21:01:30
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Any engine builders out there?
Im putting together a 1293, and using a lightened duplex set. The oil thrower on the front of the crank, is very close to the chain rivets (around 5 thou) Ive had this problem before, and it hit the chain on a different engine so I ground down the thrower on the side of a stone and flattened it by hand on an oil stone. Does anyone know if 5 thou is enough clearance? By the way, the duplex set is brand new, as is the oil thrower. Thanks in anticipation. Pete
Posted: Feb 05, 2005 04:27 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
simplex or duplex
does anyone know if 1275 90's engines had duplex timming chains or simplex. i know 1275gt had duplex.
Posted: Dec 06, 2006 05:33 PM
Timing Chain
Minispares sell a duplex kit - quite cheap and straightforward to fit. The idea is that the duplex chain won't stretch as quickly as the simplex, and whilst stretch isn't fatal it does make the cam timing a bit erratic. The choice is yours, but if you're replacing the chain anyway, which is sensible on a major rebuild, and if the sprockets look worn, which they probably will be, you might as well fit the duplex set.
Posted: Sep 14, 2008 07:20 PM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
tensioner.
the duplex chains tend to stretch less than the sinlge (simplex) chains so many people fit the chain without a tensioner. If you do still want the tensioner, they are only available (to my knowledge) in the original single type, but will still do the job.
Posted: May 18, 2010 08:22 PM
abs
98 posts
Joined: 08/11/2007 20:20:11
Location: cornwall United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
RE
Its six of one and half a dozen of the other really. In the past I have machined a bit off the crank sprocket and other times i`ve made a spacer for the cam sprocket, it all depends on what clearance you have to play with. Remember if your going from simplex to duplex chains you have to countersink and fit machine screws to the lower part of the back plate.
Posted: Feb 21, 2011 08:49 AM
armer
Joined: 10/05/2014 05:13:44
Location: seacaucus Venezuela
Question with duplex timing gear kit
Hi Guys, I have one clasicc mini 998 and I have this doubt : I change my old single timing gear kit by one duplex timing gear kit , but I do not if I need to install or if I could to install the old tensioner with this chain or if it is not necessary install the tensioner with this kit, thanks by your coments
Posted: May 23, 2014 06:17 AM
biblejohn
85 posts
Joined: 08/05/2005 12:44:41
head
Posted: May 31, 2005 10:15 AM
Vince
68 posts
Joined: 31/01/2005 17:24:31
Location: Seneca United States
The mpi
The injection engines are tough. You need to get a larger throttle body (Burlen), a larger valve head, and a mappable ECU (mappable allows you to make chnges in the programming every time you make another incremental change for performance). With the stock ECU, to a large degree, the program compensates for your performance upgrades, so you arent seeing nearly as much gain as you should. Im not sure, but I think Superchips might make the type ECU you need. After that, you can go the flywheel, clutch plate, duplex chain, route to get the added power to the road more effeciently. Im sure there are lots of more experienced folks here with loads of ideas... Vince
Posted: Apr 06, 2005 01:35 PM
Head Gasket??
Looks like its time for a change? Ive figured out which parts I need, the real question is how hard is the job of replacing it?? Can someone of average mechanical ability do this? Would this be a good time to add a duplex timing chain (while the head is off), or are they totally unrelated? Im assuming the head gasket is failing - oil leaking from beneath head just above dizzy (tightening stud nut helped slightly, but didnt totally stop it), sputtering badly under heavy throttle (could alos be water in gas or wet dizzy - similar symptoms), loss of power during sputter. The sputter is inconsistent in that backing off power usually brings it back into range. It also doesnt do it under consistent acceleration conditions (ie. sometimes I can accelerate much harder before sputtering begins). No water in oil that I can tell. Am I on the right track?? Sputtering began today after an hour long drive (oil leak started about five days ago). Thanks for any and all advice... Vince
Posted: May 31, 2005 01:59 AM